Foie Gras Ban in Chicago Is Flouted
By
DON BABWIN
CHICAGO (AP) - Five months
after the city ordered restaurants to
stop selling foie gras, it's liver and
let liver in Chicago.
While some fancy restaurants and gourmet
shops no longer offer the goose or duck
liver delicacy, others are flouting the
ban, listing foie gras on their menus
and, in one case, framing the city's warning
letter.
Evoking Chicago's Prohibition-era past,
when a password could gain entry into
a speakeasy, at least one restaurant is
rumored to be serving foie gras to customers
who ask for the "special lobster"
dish.
And one place has cleverly skirted the
ban by offering foie gras as a complimentary
item. (The city ordinance bans the SALE
of foie gras.)
The city has sent out but a smattering
of warning letters, conducted one inspection
and has yet to levy its first fine, making
it clear that is has little stomach for
sniffing out violators of the nation's
first ban on foie gras.
"We need to focus as much as possible
on things that actually make people sick
and kill people," said Health Department
spokesman Tim Hadac. "Our mission
is to protect human health and not the
health of geese and ducks."
Hadac called the ban the department's
lowest priority.
Foie gras was banned in Chicago because
of what animal rights activists say is
the inhumane way geese and ducks are force-fed
to plump up their livers. The penalty:
a fine of at least $250. Mayor Richard
Daley has called it the "silliest"
ordinance the City Council has ever passed.
And many restaurants have acted accordingly.
At one business, the owner has treated
his warning letter as if it were from
a celebrity praising a great meal. "I
did frame the letter and put it up on
the sales counter," said Doug Sohn,
owner of Hot Doug's, a gourmet sausage
store.
The health department said it has received
just nine first-time complaints about
an establishment - each one prompting
a warning letter.
"As much as some supporters of the
law and animal rights activists beat their
chests over the issue, we frankly don't
get a lot of complaints," Hadac said.
The city's one inspection ended without
a citation because the restaurant, Bin
36, noted on its menu that the foie gras
terrine was a complimentary addition to
the wild mushroom confit salad.
What inspectors didn't ask, said executive
chef and partner John Caputo, is whether
the salad would cost as much if it didn't
include foie gras. It wouldn't.
Activists, though, say the ban is working.
"Our supporters are going into restaurants
and we're told that they are not selling
foie gras," said Gene Baur, president
of Farm Sanctuary, a national farm animal
protection organization.
But those supporters apparently are not
going to restaurants such as Sweets &
Savories, which continues to sell foie
gras and has not been the subject of a
single complaint.
"I kind of feel left out," said
the restaurant's owner, David Richards.
At Copperblue, the menu includes "'It
isn't foie gras any Moore' duck liver
terrine" - named after the ordinance's
chief sponsor, Alderman Joe Moore. Chef
and owner Michael Tsonton will not say
how the dish differs from foie gras, and
nobody with the city has asked.
Moore said he realizes the Health Department
has more pressing issues. But he is dismayed
to see restaurants flouting the ordinance.
"It evinces a certain degree of arrogance
on the parts of these establishments,"
he told the Chicago Tribune.